FAQ
Everything you need to know about our mobile home set-up, repairs, and service
options—answered in one place.
What’s included in a mobile home move?
A full-service move typically covers utility disconnects, structural prep (axles/tires, hitch), transport permits/escorts, route planning, site prep at destination, blocking/leveling, anchoring/tie-downs, utility reconnection, and skirting re-install (if requested). You’ll receive a written scope before work begins.
Do you install or level existing homes?
Yes. We handle new installs and re-levels on existing single-wides and double-wides. Service includes pier/block inspection, elevation checks, frame jacking at approved points, shim/anchor adjustments, door/window recheck, and post-service documentation.
Do you provide warranty or permits?
We pull required permits where applicable and coordinate inspections with local authorities/park management. Workmanship is backed by a written warranty (term varies by service type); materials carry manufacturer warranties. Ask for your job’s specific coverage in writing.
How fast can I schedule a job?
Site evaluations are often available within 2–5 business days, with installs/moves typically scheduled 1–3 weeks out depending on permits, weather, and crew availability. Emergency re-levels or safety fixes can be prioritized – call for current openings.
Plumbing
How is mobile home plumbing different from a site-built home?
Mobile homes often use PEX supply with a central manifold and ABS drains routed under the home (inside the belly/underbelly). Access is through skirting, so insulation and heat-tape protection are critical.
Do I need a plumber who specializes in mobile homes?
Yes. Mobile homes have unique parts, clearances, heat tape, belly pans, and park/HUD requirements that specialists handle daily – saving time and preventing rework.
What are the most common plumbing issues you see?
Frozen/burst lines, leaking fittings in the underbelly, low water pressure, recurring drain clogs, failing water heaters, and aging polybutylene piping.
My water line froze or burst. What should I do now?
Shut off the main water supply, cut power to the water heater, and call us. Don’t use open flames; we’ll thaw safely, repair splits, and inspect heat tape/insulation.
Why is my water pressure low?
Common causes include clogged aerators, a failing pressure regulator, partially closed valves, mineral buildup, or undersized/collapsed lines under the home. Park or well pressure can also be the culprit.
Do you replace polybutylene piping?
Yes. We re-pipe to PEX with new shutoff valves and proper supports, improving reliability, insurance acceptance, and resale value.
Can you install or replace a mobile-home water heater?
Absolutely. We install mobile-home-rated units (gas/electric), ensure proper venting/clearances, pans and drains, and code-compliant TPR discharge.
My underbelly is sagging. Could that be a plumbing issue?
Often, yes. Leaks can collect in the belly pan. We open and repair the plumbing, dry materials, replace insulation/vapor barrier, and re-seal the belly board.
How do estimates and emergency service work?
We provide on-site diagnosis with a written estimate before repairs. For emergencies, shut off the main and call – priority dispatch is available.
Electricity
How is mobile home wiring different from a site-built home?
Manufactured homes follow HUD code, often use a main service disconnect at the pedestal, a feeder to the home panel, and sometimes aluminum branch circuits in older units. Access often runs through the underbelly.
Do I need an electrician who specializes in mobile homes?
Yes. Mobile homes have unique grounding/bonding rules, HUD labels, belly access, and park pedestals. A specialist saves time and avoids code violations.
Why do certain outlets or one side of the home lose power?
Common causes: tripped GFCI/AFCI, weak back-stabbed connections, failed multi-wire branch circuit ties, or loose neutral in the panel/pedestal. We diagnose, tighten/replace, and re-terminate correctly.
Is aluminum wiring safe?
It can be safe if maintained. We inspect and perform approved repairs (AlumiConn/CO-ALR devices, antioxidant, proper torque). In some cases, a targeted copper pigtail retrofit or circuit replacement is best.
What size electrical service do I have: 30A, 50A, or 100A+?
Many older homes are 50A or 100A; newer models may be 150–200A. We verify pedestal rating, feeder size, and main breaker to determine upgrade options.
Do I need GFCI and AFCI protection?
Yes – GFCI for kitchens, baths, exterior, and under-home receptacles; AFCI for many living areas per current code. We add/upgrade breakers or outlets to protect against shock and arc faults.
Can I run space heaters, window ACs, or heat tape safely?
Yes – with dedicated circuits sized correctly. Many trips/overheats are from overloaded general circuits. We add circuits, check receptacle ratings, and confirm heat-tape outlets are GFCI-protected.
How do you handle panel, breaker, or pedestal issues?
We inspect for heat damage, double-lugging, corrosion, and loose neutrals/grounds; replace faulty breakers/panels; and coordinate with the park or utility for pedestal repairs and shutoffs.
Can you install generators, EV chargers, or solar on a mobile home?
Usually, yes. We install transfer switches/interlocks for generators, add dedicated EV circuits, and evaluate roof/ground-mount solar with proper grounding and equipment clearances.
Do permits and inspections apply to mobile homes?
Yes. We follow HUD/local codes, pull permits when required, label circuits, and provide documentation – often needed for insurance and resale.
HVAC
How is HVAC in a mobile home different from a site-built home?
Manufactured homes often use mobile-home-rated, downflow furnaces, smaller/high-static duct systems, a crossover duct between sections, and sometimes package units mounted outside with roof/side penetrations.
Do I need mobile-home-rated equipment?
Yes. HUD/code requires mobile-home-approved furnaces, coils, and kits (roof jack/combustion air, tie-downs, duct adapters). Using standard equipment can fail inspection and void warranties.
Package unit vs. split system – what’s best?
Package units save indoor space and simplify service; split systems (outdoor condenser + indoor furnace/coil) are quieter inside and easier to upgrade by component. We’ll recommend based on space, ducts, and budget.
Why is one end of my home hotter/colder?
Usually a leaking, crushed, or disconnected crossover duct, unbalanced registers, or inadequate return air. We inspect the underbelly, seal with mastic/tape, support ducts, and balance airflow.
How do you size a system for a mobile home?
We perform a Manual J load calc (no “tons per square foot” guessing), check duct static pressure, and select equipment that meets SEER2/EER2/HSPF2 targets for comfort and efficiency.
Can I switch to a heat pump or mini-split?
Yes. Heat pumps work well with proper strip-heat backup; ducted or ductless mini-splits are great for additions or rooms with weak airflow. We verify electrical capacity and control wiring first.
What are common HVAC issues in mobile homes?
Dirty or restrictive filters, undersized/dirty coils, high static from small ducts, failed heat strips, sagging/breached belly pan causing duct leaks, and improperly trapped condensate drains.
How often should I service my system, and what filter should I use?
Service twice a year (heating & cooling). Use the correct filter size and a moderate MERV (8–11) to avoid choking airflow; replace every 1–3 months depending on dust and pets.
My AC is running but the home is still humid. Why?
Possible oversized equipment, low airflow/high static, dirty coil, or short cycling. We measure CFM & static, clean coils, and may adjust blower speed or recommend right-sizing.
Do permits and park/HUD rules apply?
Yes. We pull permits, follow HUD/local code, coordinate with park management/utility for disconnects, and provide documentation for insurance and resale.
Decks & Skirting / Refurb / Paint
Do mobile home decks follow different rules than houses?
Yes. Decks should be free-standing (not ledger-bolted to the home frame) to avoid structure damage and meet HUD/park guidelines.
Do I need permits or park approval?
Usually yes. We handle drawings, permits, and coordinate with park management for setbacks, height, railing, and skirting requirements.
What’s the best deck material: treated wood or composite?
Treated lumber is budget-friendly; composite reduces maintenance and resists rot. We’ll size framing for local wind/snow loads and manufacturer specs.
How deep do footings need to be?
Footings must be below local frost line (where applicable) and sized for load and soil type. We use proper posts, anchors, and bracing for uplift and racking.
Do stairs and rails have special requirements?
Yes – tread rise/run, graspable handrails, guard rail height, and baluster spacing all apply. We also offer ADA/low-rise options and non-slip treads.
What types of skirting do you install?
Vinyl, metal, insulated rigid-panel, faux stone, and vented systems. We include access doors, rodent barriers, and secure panels for wind resistance.
How do you prevent moisture problems behind skirting?
Proper venting, ground vapor barrier, graded drainage, and sealed belly pan. We add adjustable vents and recommend mechanical ventilation if needed.
Can you repair a sagging belly/underbelly during a skirting job?
Yes. We open the area, fix leaks/duct issues, replace insulation/vapor barrier, re-seal the belly board, and reinstall skirting cleanly.
What paint/coating should I use on mobile home exteriors?
For aluminum/steel: acrylic latex + bonding primer. For vinyl: vinyl-safe colors (darker shades can warp), specialty vinyl primer if needed. For decks: stain or coating rated for horizontal surfaces.
How do you prep for repainting or deck refinishing?
Low-pressure wash, scrape/feather, repair caulk, spot-prime bare metal/wood, mask, and apply per temp/humidity specs. We schedule around weather for cure times and offer warranty options.
Mobile Home Moves & Leveling
What’s included in a mobile home move?
Disconnection of utilities, structural prep (re-install axles/tires, check frame/hitch), transport permits/escorts, site prep at destination, blocking/leveling, tie-downs/anchoring, and reconnection of utilities.
Do I need permits or park approvals to move a mobile home?
Yes. Moves typically require state/DMV transport permits, park/HOA approval, and sometimes building/setup permits at the destination. We handle approvals and scheduling.
How do you prepare the home for transport?
Secure interior contents, brace doors/cabinets, disconnect utilities, remove/add sections of skirting/steps, inspect frame, install or inspect axles/tires, and verify height/width for route planning.
What affects the cost of a move?
Distance, single-wide vs. double-wide, escort/oversize requirements, condition of frame/axles, site access (trees, grades, narrow roads), foundation type at the new site, and utility reconnection scope.
What is “leveling” and why does it matter?
Leveling sets the home to manufacturer specs by adjusting piers, shims, and blocks so loads are evenly supported. Proper level prevents drywall cracks, door misalignment, roof/joist stress, plumbing drain issues, and soft-floor spots from water pooling.
How do I know my home needs re-leveling?
Sticky doors/windows, cabinet or countertop gaps, floor squeaks, cracked caulk/drywall, rolling items, plumbing gurgles/slow drains, or roof water not shedding evenly are common signs.
How is re-leveling done?
We inspect piers/footings, measure elevations, jack the frame at approved lift points, add/replace blocks and steel shims, verify cross-bracing, and re-check door/window operation and drain slope.
How often should a mobile home be re-leveled?
After initial settling (first 6–18 months) and then as needed, typically every 3–5 years or after events like frost heave, floods, soil washout, or foundation changes.
What’s involved in setup at the new site?
Footings to local frost depth (or approved pads), pier/block system, frame leveling, anchors/tie-downs per wind zone, crossover duct/utility connections, skirting with vents, and final safety checks (gas leak, electrical polarity, water pressure).
Do you document the move and leveling for insurance or resale?
Yes. We provide written reports, photos, anchor/level readings, and permit info – useful for lenders, insurers, and park management.
Dirt Work / Pads / Site Prep
What’s included in site prep for a mobile home?
Clearing/haul-off, rough and finish grading, pad build (gravel or concrete), compaction, drainage planning, utility trenching (water/sewer/electric/gas), access/drive prep, and erosion control.
Do I need permits or approvals?
Usually yes. We verify zoning, setbacks, driveway/culvert approvals, utility taps, septic permits, and any HOA/park requirements – then handle submissions and inspections.
Gravel pad vs. concrete slab: what’s better?
Engineered gravel pads (with geotextile + compacted aggregate) are cost-effective and drain well. Concrete slabs offer a hard, permanent surface and easier maintenance. We recommend based on soil, drainage, budget, and foundation type.
How big should the pad be?
At minimum, the pad should exceed the home’s footprint, typically extending 2–5 ft around the perimeter for access, tie-downs, and skirting. Exact size depends on local code and anchoring system.
What compaction and base specs do you use?
We target ≥95% Standard Proctor density (field-verified), install geotextile if soils are soft, and place 4–8 in of graded aggregate in lifts for a stable, well-draining base.
How do you handle drainage so water doesn’t pond under the home?
We grade the site to shed water (general finish slope ~2% away from the pad), add swales/culverts if needed, and set pad elevation high enough to clear surrounding grades and skirting vents.
Can you work with poor soils or sloped lots?
Yes. We stabilize with geotextile, thicker aggregate, or lime/cement treatment; add retaining solutions where needed; and bench/terrace sloped sites to achieve a level, engineered pad.
Do you trench for utilities and septic?
Yes. We trench to code for water, sewer/septic, electric, and gas; set utility stubs at the right locations; coordinate septic tanks/fields or city taps; and backfill/mark routes for future service.
How long does site prep take and what affects cost?
Most sites prep in 2–7 days, depending on clearing, soil conditions, weather, access, and whether you choose gravel vs. slab. Costs are driven by haul-off volume, base thickness, permits, and utility distances.
Do you provide documentation for lenders, insurers, or the park?
Yes. You’ll get a written scope, compaction/density results (if required), pad drawings/elevations, drainage notes, utility as-builts, and photos for your records.
Gutters / Storm Drainage
Do mobile homes need gutters?
Yes. Short eaves and skirting make drainage critical. Gutters keep water off the siding, underbelly, and pier blocks, reducing rot, mold, and settling.
What gutter types work best on mobile homes?
Seamless aluminum K-style (4–5″) is common; half-round for metal roof-overs. We use hidden hangers and stainless fasteners suited to thin fascia/metal edges.
My home has a roof-over. Can you still add gutters?
Usually yes. We attach to the new fascia/drip edge with compatible fasteners/sealants and confirm pitch so water doesn’t pond at seams.
How should downspouts discharge around skirting?
Extend 6–10 ft away with elbows and extensions, not into the skirting. Add splash blocks, corrugated extensions, or tie into surface swales or drains.
Water is pooling under my home. Will gutters fix it?
Gutters help, but we also address grading (2% away), under-home vapor barrier, and, if needed, French drains/dry wells to move water off-site.
Do you install gutter guards?
Yes – screen or micro-mesh. Guards cut cleaning but don’t eliminate maintenance. We choose guard types that fit low-slope/metal edges and pine needles if applicable.
How often should gutters be cleaned/serviced?
Inspect every 6 months (spring/fall) and after major storms. Clear debris, check pitch, reseal joints, and verify downspout extensions are intact.
Can you tie downspouts into a French drain or dry well?
Yes. We use fabric-wrapped perforated pipe, washed stone, cleanouts, and correct slopes; discharge points follow park/city rules to avoid neighbor runoff.
What causes gutter overflow on mobile homes?
Insufficient capacity, poor pitch, crushed extensions, clogged outlets/guards, or too few downspouts. We right-size (often one downspout per 25–35 ft) and re-pitch.
Do permits or park rules apply to drainage?
Often. Parks/cities regulate discharge onto streets/lots. We handle approvals, mark utility lines before digging, and document the system for your records.